Important Watches

Movado for Cartier, Paris A yellow gold purse watch with black dial and sliding covers, Circa 1955 Dial: black galvanic dial co-signed Movado and Cartier, applied gold Arabic and baton hour indexes, dauphine hands Calibre: 8½’’’ circular movement signed Movado, wound via opening and closing of covers, grained decoration, lever escapement, 17 jewels, annular balance with poising screws, unadjusted, flat hairspring, Incabloc shock absorber Case: 18k yellow gold, sliding engine-turned basketweave decorated covers opening and closing on runners, gold inner case frame with steel sprung levers connected to steel cams to wind the movement with the action of opening and closing the case, polished movement case back with hinged folding strut stand, flat notched crown with Movado emblem, inside case back with Movado logo, Swiss Helvetia head assay mark, 18k/0.750 stamps, Poinçon de Maître hammer head 115 Case number: 18’319, 1’268, 3’266, 447, inner case frame numbered 47 Size: 45 mm length x 30 mm width Accessories: Cartier presentation box The name Ermeto is derived from the Greek word meaning “sealed,” highlighting the model’s resistance to dirt and moisture. The design was developed by Huguenin Frères of Le Locle and patented in Germany on 12th October 1926 under DRP no. 443 555. Shortly thereafter, Movado acquired the rights to market the Ermeto, launching it in 1926 with the calibre 150MN movement. One of the most successful purse watch designs of all time, the Ermeto was produced in a wide variety of configurations, including movements that were manually wound, case wound or 8-day going, as well as models with calendar or alarm functions. Over the years, the Ermeto featured an array of case and dial designs, becoming one of Movado’s most recognized and iconic pieces. Among its admirers was Andy Warhol, a devoted Movado enthusiast who owned at least six different versions of the Ermeto spanning various periods. Although many examples survive, solid gold variants remain relatively rare, and examples made for Cartier are particularly rare. This particular model, created for Cartier circa 1955, features an unusual basketweave design – a pattern also found on another Cartier purse watch of similar date with a movement by Jaeger LeCoultre. The Ermeto shown here incorporates Movado’s ingenious ‘automatic’ case winding system, patented in 1928. When the sliding covers are opened, sprung levers and cams engage the winding train and crown, ‘automatically’ winding the watch. This clever piece of horological engineering ensures that each opening and closing of the case provides approximately four hours of running time, meaning the user only needs to open the case six times a day to power the watch for a full 24 hours.

View 1 of Lot 2230: A yellow gold purse watch with black dial and sliding covers, Circa 1955

a yellow gold purse watch with black dial and sliding covers, circa 1955

Cartier Tank Louis ‘His and Hers’, Reference 8110 A set of two wristwatches, first a yellow gold wristwatch with date and bracelet, second a yellow gold wristwatch with bracelet, Circa 1994 Dial: both white Calibre: both quartz, jewelled Case: both 18k yellow gold, case back secured by 4 screws Case number: first 8’110’020’043, second 8’110’010’005 Closure: both 18k yellow gold Cartier bracelet and double folding clasp Size: first 30.5 mm length x 23.5 mm width, bracelet circumference approximately 160 mm, second 28 mm length x 20.5 mm width, bracelet circumference approximately 150 Signed: both case, dial and movement Accessories: none Seldom seen as a pair in both sizes of the same reference, the use of a small seconds dial is very unusual to find in the Tank Louis collection, and indeed only produced for a short time only. Interestingly, both watches of this present pair come with the rare and sought-after metal brick-style bracelet, further elevating its collectibility. Staying true to the original design by its namesake, Louis Cartier, this lot stands to represent a bridge between vintage and contemporary references of the iconic Tank Louis and a perfect couples’ set.

View 1 of Lot 2500: Tank Louis ‘His and Hers’, Reference 8110 | A set of two wristwatches, first a yellow gold wristwatch with date and bracelet, second a yellow gold wristwatch with bracelet, Circa 1994

tank louis ‘his and hers’, reference 8110 | a set of two wristwatches, first a yellow gold wristwatch with date and bracelet, second a yellow gold wristwatch with bracelet, circa 1994

Cartier, London Maxi Oval A rare yellow gold elongated curved oval wristwatch with original gold deployant buckle, Circa 1969-70 Dial: white dial signed Cartier London, stretched radial Roman numerals, slim blued steel épée hands Calibre: 7’’’ oval calibre K535 movement signed Jaeger-LeCoultre, grained decoration, lever escapement, 17 jewels, annular balance, flat hairspring, Kif Flector shock absorber Movement number: numbered to main plate 2’001’535 Case: 18k yellow gold stretched and curved oval case, rounded bezel, case back secured by four screws to case sides, beaded cabochon sapphire-set crown, inside case back with London hallmarks for 18k gold, date letter ‘o’ for 1969-70, [JC] Jean-Jacques Cartier punch mark Case number: hand stamped 9’162 Closure: brown beige unsigned leather strap and 18k yellow gold deployant buckle, London hallmarks for 18k gold, date letter ‘o’ for 1969-70, [JC] Jean-Jacques Cartier punch mark and hand stamped 9’162 Size: 52 mm length x 22.5 mm width Accessories: none The Cartier London Maxi Oval is among the most celebrated creations from Cartier’s Bond Street atelier, a masterpiece of bold design and uncompromising craftsmanship. Introduced in the late 1960s, the Maxi Oval epitomised the dynamic energy of the era, drawing inspiration from the revolutionary spirit that defined London at the time. Dramatically larger than most wristwatches of the period, particularly those with a traditional dress aesthetic, its impressive size made it an unmistakable statement piece, while the model’s innovative design secured its status as an artistic triumph. The Maxi Oval emerged during the Swinging Sixties, a time when London was the epicentre of cultural innovation and youthful rebellion. Icons such as The Beatles, The Rolling Stones, and Twiggy embodied the spirit of the decade, while designers like Mary Quant revolutionised fashion with daring and playful styles. Cartier London mirrored this creativity and experimentation in its watchmaking, producing avant-garde designs that pushed boundaries. The Maxi Oval, alongside other Cartier Bond Street icons like the Crash and Pebble, captured this ethos, transforming functional timepieces into provocative statements of individuality. Cartier London’s designers of the late 1960s and early 1970s embraced fluid, deconstructed, and asymmetrical shapes, a creative approach that placed their watches at the forefront of design innovation. Models like the Maxi Oval, the Crash, and the Pebble defined this era of remarkable artistry, as Cartier London challenged and reimagined traditional watchmaking norms. Like its contemporaries, the Maxi Oval features Vendôme-style T-bar lugs affixed to the case back, a thoughtful design choice that conceals the lugs, ensuring the watch’s silhouette remains visually uninterrupted. The result is an elongated, curved oval form that seamlessly blends elegance with modernity. The sinuous curves of the bezel flow downwards, converging with the case back into a deeply concave form that allows the watch to hug the wrist in an almost organic fashion. This curvature not only enhances comfort but also imbues the watch with a sculptural, dynamic quality. Adding to its distinctiveness are the exaggerated Roman numerals that stretch dramatically across the dial, amplifying the sense of scale and reinforcing the watch’s avant-garde character. By reinterpreting a traditional horological element to complement its bold proportions, Cartier London successfully bridged the gap between classic elegance and contemporary innovation.

View 1 of Lot 2501: Maxi Oval | A rare yellow gold elongated curved oval wristwatch with original gold deployant buckle, Circa 1969-70

maxi oval | a rare yellow gold elongated curved oval wristwatch with original gold deployant buckle, circa 1969-70

Fine Watches

Cartier Santos-Dumont ‘Large’, Reference 2651 A white gold wristwatch, Circa 2006 Dial: silvered Calibre: cal. 430 MC mechanical, 18 jewels Case: 18k white gold, case back secured by 6 screws Case number: 3720B2CE Closure: black Cartier alligator strap and 18k white gold folding clasp Size: 45 mm length x 35 mm width Signed: case, dial and movement Accessories: Cartier Certificate of Origin

View 1 of Lot 8817: Santos-Dumont ‘Large’, Reference 2651 | A white gold wristwatch, Circa 2006

santos-dumont ‘large’, reference 2651 | a white gold wristwatch, circa 2006

Cartier Libre ‘Trombone’, Reference 2635 A white gold and diamond-set wristwatch, Circa 2010 Dial: silvered Calibre: quartz, jewelled Case: 18k white gold, case back secured by 4 screws Case number: 916543CD Closure: black Cartier leather strap and 18k white gold buckle Size: 42.5 mm length x 16 mm width Signed: case, dial and movement Accessories: none

View 1 of Lot 8947: Libre ‘Trombone’, Reference 2635 | A white gold and diamond-set wristwatch, Circa 2010

libre ‘trombone’, reference 2635 | a white gold and diamond-set wristwatch, circa 2010

Cartier Santos, Reference 9606 A yellow gold wristwatch, Circa 1995 Dial: white Calibre: mechanical, jewelled Case: 18k yellow gold, case back secured by 4 screws Case number: 20'382 Closure: brown unsigned leather strap and gilt buckle Size: 31 mm length x 23 mm width Signed: case, dial and movement Accessories: none

View 1 of Lot 8882: Santos, Reference 9606 | A yellow gold wristwatch, Circa 1995

santos, reference 9606 | a yellow gold wristwatch, circa 1995

Cartier, France A yellow gold foldable pendant watch with concealed dial, Circa 1945 Dial: silvered Calibre: mechanical, 15 jewels Movement number: 432'289 Case: 18k yellow gold Case number: 24'119, 05'781 and 432'289 Size: 23 mm width Signed: dial; movement signed European Watch and Clock & Co Accessories: none Designed as a playful exercise in form and functionality, this unusual Cartier creation features a hinged cover that conceals and protects the dial when not in use, recalling a folding domino tile. The ingenious design also allows the watch to be worn as a pendant, transforming it from a timepiece into an elegant jewellery object. This inventive construction reflects Cartier's long-standing fascination with reimagining everyday forms as sophisticated watches, blurring the boundary between horology and jewellery. Both whimsical and highly practical, the model exemplifies the Maison's creativity and its mastery of unconventional designs.

View 1 of Lot 2465: A yellow gold foldable pendant watch with concealed dial, Circa 1945

a yellow gold foldable pendant watch with concealed dial, circa 1945

Cartier, Paris Baguette Coulissante An unusual rectangular stainless steel lady’s rear-wound wristwatch with sliding protective dial cover, Circa 1945 Dial: cream dial signed Cartier France, black Arabic numerals, blued steel epée hands Calibre: 4’’’ Duo-Plan movement signed LeCoultre Co., grained and pearled decoration, lever escapement, 15 jewels, annular balance with poising screws, unadjusted, flat hairspring Movement number: numbered 27’185, soft metal movement cover numbered to exterior 27’185 Case: stainless steel rectangular case, long brancards terminating in angled lugs, polished and satin-finished upper body with similarly finished panel sliding to reveal the dial, notched flat winding crown to polished case back, lugs with spring bars Case number: outside case back numbered 67’078, 5’362, inside case top hand stamped 64’354, underside of sliding panel numbered 67’078 Closure: unsigned blue leather strap and stainless steel buckle Size: 29 mm length x 12 mm width Accessories: none Introduced following Edmond Jaeger’s 1931 patent for a sliding protective cover, the Baguette Coulissante is one of Cartier’s most inventive watch designs of the period. The present stainless steel example features a concealed dial revealed by a sliding panel, combining elegant aesthetics with practical dial protection. With its rear-set winding crown and streamlined profile, the model exemplifies Cartier’s ability to unite functionality, innovation and refined design.

View 1 of Lot 2493: Baguette Coulissante | An unusual rectangular stainless steel lady’s rear-wound wristwatch with sliding protective dial cover, Circa 1945

baguette coulissante | an unusual rectangular stainless steel lady’s rear-wound wristwatch with sliding protective dial cover, circa 1945

Cartier Bamboo Coussin, Reference 78102 A yellow gold wristwatch, Circa 1975 Dial: white Calibre: cal. 78-1 mechanical, 17 jewels Case: 18k yellow gold, case back secured by 4 screws Case number: 0'231 Closure: unsigned beige leather strap and 18k yellow gold Cartier folding clasp Size: 36 mm length x 28 mm width Signed: case, dial and movement Accessories: Cartier travelling pouch The Cartier Coussin Bamboo Ref. 78102 is part of the Louis Cartier Collection of 1973, which marked a pivotal moment in Cartier’s history. Following the 1972 acquisition of Cartier Paris by Robert Hocq and an investment group led by Joseph Kanoui, Cartier embarked on a global reorganization to reunite its previously independent branches. By 1976, Cartier Paris, New York, and London were once again consolidated under single ownership, which strengthened the brand’s global identity and aligned its luxury offerings. This restructuring allowed Cartier to streamline its production practices and transfer almost all its watch manufacturing operations from Paris and London to Switzerland, facilitated by a key partnership with Ebel in La Chaux-de-Fonds. With Ebel’s expertise, Cartier was able to produce watches in larger quantities and with the consistency needed to establish itself as a truly global luxury brand. Released in 1973, the Louis Cartier Collection was a retrospective series that revisited Cartier’s iconic designs while also introducing entirely new shapes. This ambitious collection included 12 models, all sharing key design elements such as gold cases, white enamel painted dials with Roman numerals, epée hands, and ETA or Ebel supplied movements signed for Cartier. While these features created a cohesive identity, Cartier boldly pushed the boundaries of form, experimenting with shape. Each model had a distinct case design, reflecting the brand’s creativity and willingness to innovate. As with other models in the collection, the Coussin Ref. 78102 features a five-digit reference number engraved on the case back, followed by a sequential serial number. As with other models from the Louis Cartier Collection, the Coussin Bamboo Ref. 78102 demonstrates Cartier’s commitment to refined and innovative design. With its cushion-shaped case, soft rounded edges, and bamboo-style bezel, it brought a unique profile to the collection that blended Cartier’s traditional elegance with a modern aesthetic. The Coussin was produced in both large and small sizes as illustrated here. One of the most unusual designs from the 1973 collection, the Coussin’s balanced, distinctive form was perfectly aligned with the 1970s wider trend toward unique, unconventional wristwatch designs. --- The Bamboo Coussin is a remarkable Cartier timepiece that embodies the maison’s longstanding passion for innovative design, cross-cultural influences, and artistic creativity. Introduced in the early 1970s and offered in both men and lady versions, the present reference 78102 being the "Jumbo" size for men, the Bamboo model represents a striking yet sophisticated expression of Cartier’s bold design vision during one of its most inventive eras. Inspired by Asian aesthetics—an enduring source of inspiration for Cartier since the early 20th century—the design reflects a cultural dialogue that can be traced back to celebrated creations such as the Tank Chinoise of 1922, as well as a range of exceptional Art Deco clocks and decorative objects distinguished by their geometric forms and non-Western influences. With the Bamboo Coussin, Cartier transformed the natural elegance of bamboo into sculptural gold elements that gracefully surround the case, combining organic fluidity with architectural strength. The present example is a rare large-sized model crafted in yellow gold and is especially sought after. More than a timekeeping instrument, this watch is a wearable work of art and an important chapter in Cartier’s design heritage. It stands as a lasting testament to the maison’s exceptional ability to unite cultural inspiration, artistic innovation, and timeless craftsmanship in a single creation.

View 1 of Lot 2243: Bamboo Coussin, Reference 78102 | A yellow gold wristwatch, Circa 1975

bamboo coussin, reference 78102 | a yellow gold wristwatch, circa 1975

Cartier Tank Americaine, Reference 2489 A white gold and diamond-set wristwatch with bracelet, Circa 2000 Dial: silvered Calibre: quartz, 4 jewels Case: 18k white gold, case back secured by 4 screws Case number: 911483CD Closure: 18k white gold Cartier bracelet and double folding clasp Size: 34.5 mm length x 19 mm width, bracelet circumference approximately 160 mm Signed: case, dial and movement Accessories: none

View 1 of Lot 8951: Tank Americaine, Reference 2489 | A white gold and diamond-set wristwatch with bracelet, Circa 2000

tank americaine, reference 2489 | a white gold and diamond-set wristwatch with bracelet, circa 2000

Cartier, Paris London retailed Tortue à Pattes An unusual tonneau-form yellow gold wristwatch with decorative blue enamel inlay and gold deployant buckle, Circa 1926 Dial: silvered dial signed Cartier, stretched radial Roman numerals, outer chemin-de-fer minute track, blued steel Breguet hands Calibre: 8½’’’ circular LeCoultre calibre movement signed European Watch and Clock Co. Inc. Movement number: numbered beneath dial 27’042, 5 Case: 18k gold tonneau-form case, the case top inlaid with blue enamel interspersed with gold square and dot motifs, gold screw-set lug bars, inside case back signed European Watch and Clock Co. Inc. France Case number: inside case back hand stamped 17’082, outside case back engraved initials V.D. and hand stamped 17’082, 27’042 Closure: black unsigned fabric strap and 18k yellow and pink gold deployant buckle Size: 27 mm length x 19 mm width Accessories: none The Cartier Tortue wristwatch, introduced by Louis Cartier in 1912, was a groundbreaking design that helped redefine the concept of the luxury wristwatch. Its distinctive tortoise-shaped case, known as the Tortue à Pattes (Turtle with Paws), was a charming and elegant departure from traditional round watches.

View 1 of Lot 2475: London retailed | Tortue à Pattes | An unusual tonneau-form yellow gold wristwatch with decorative blue enamel inlay and gold deployant buckle, Circa 1926

london retailed | tortue à pattes | an unusual tonneau-form yellow gold wristwatch with decorative blue enamel inlay and gold deployant buckle, circa 1926

Cartier, London Tank J.J.C. A rectangular yellow gold lady’s wristwatch with original gold deployant buckle, Circa 1976-77 Dial: cream dial signed Cartier, stretched black radial Roman numerals, inner chemin-de-fer minute track, blued steel epée hands Calibre: 5¾’’’ tonneau-form calibre 841 signed Jaeger-LeCoultre, grained decoration, lever escapement, jewelled, annular balance, flat hairspring, Kif Satellor shock absorber Case: 18k yellow gold rectangular case with polished finish, rounded brancards, beaded cabochon sapphire-set crown, case secured by four screws to case sides, gold screw-set lug bars, inside case back with London 18k gold hallmarks, date letter ‘o’ and [JC] Jean-Jacques Cartier punch mark Case number: gold case back hand stamped 1’984 and further numbered 624'291 Closure: camel unsigned leather strap and 18k yellow gold deployant buckle with UK hallmarks and [JC] Jean-Jacques Cartier punch mark, hand stamped 1’984 Size: 27 mm length x 20 mm width Accessories: none The J.J.C. or Jean-Jacques Cartier Tank model was introduced by Cartier London in 1951. Based on the original L.C. (Louis Cartier) model, the J.J.C. has distinctly rounded brancards. A late example of the model, dating to 1976, when the London branch was back under the control of Cartier Paris, the dial is in the more traditional Paris style with an inner minute track. Looking at other examples of the J.J.C., it can be seen that earlier versions of this model tended to be executed with larger Roman numerals and without a minute track.

View 1 of Lot 2497: Tank J.J.C. | A rectangular yellow gold lady’s wristwatch with original gold deployant buckle, Circa 1976-77

tank j.j.c. | a rectangular yellow gold lady’s wristwatch with original gold deployant buckle, circa 1976-77

Cartier Santos ‘Paris Mk I’, Reference 78098 A yellow gold wristwatch, Circa 1978 Dial: white Calibre: mechanical, jewelled Case: 18k yellow gold, case back secured by 4 screws Case number: 780’981’477 Closure: burgundy unsigned alligator strap and 18k yellow gold buckle Size: 24 mm length x 20 mm width Signed: case, dial and movement Accessories: none

View 1 of Lot 8880: Santos ‘Paris Mk I’, Reference 78098 | A yellow gold wristwatch, Circa 1978

santos ‘paris mk i’, reference 78098 | a yellow gold wristwatch, circa 1978

Cartier 'Pendulette Basculante', Reference 2748 A stainless steel and ebonised wood alarm desk clock, Circa 1985 Dial: silvered Calibre: quartz, jewelled Case: stainless steel, case back secured by 4 screws Case number: 161444GD Size: 84 mm length x 33 mm width x 81 mm height Signed: case, dial and movement Accessories: none

View 1 of Lot 8766: 'Pendulette Basculante', Reference 2748 | A stainless steel and ebonised wood alarm desk clock, Circa 1985

'pendulette basculante', reference 2748 | a stainless steel and ebonised wood alarm desk clock, circa 1985

Cartier Tortue Collection Privée, Reference WGTO0008 A limited edition platinum wristwatch, Circa 2024 Dial: silvered Calibre: cal. 430 MC mechanical, 18 jewels Case: platinum, case back secured by 8 screws Case number: limited edition 188/200 Closure: red Cartier alligator strap and platinum buckle Size: 40.5 mm length x 32.5 mm width Signed: case, dial and movement Accessories: Cartier travelling pouch Originally designed by Louis Cartier in 1912, the Tortue is one of Cartier's earliest and most endearing shaped watch designs, renowned for its distinctive tortoise shell inspired silhouette. The present Cartier Privé Tortue Hours and Minutes belongs to the celebrated 2023 revival and is one of only 200 individually numbered examples produced in platinum. Its elegant silvered opaline dial, applied Roman numerals, and ruby-set crown showcase the collection's refined aesthetic and timeless appeal. Powered by the manually wound calibre 430 MC, this limited edition timepiece exemplifies Cartier's mastery of form and proportion.

View 1 of Lot 2235: Tortue, Reference WGTO0008 | A limited edition platinum wristwatch, Circa 2024

tortue, reference wgto0008 | a limited edition platinum wristwatch, circa 2024

Cartier, Paris A platinum, gold, royal blue guilloché enamel and diamond-set pendant watch with matching chain, Circa 1905 Dial: silvered dial signed Cartier, black Arabic numerals, outer chemin-de-fer minute track, blued steel spade hands Calibre: 9’’’ unsigned Swiss movement, damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, jewelled to the centre, bi-metallic compensation balance with timing and poising screws, flat hairspring Movement number: numbered to main plate 75’134 Case: platinum case, barleycorn engine-turned decoration to back beneath translucent royal blue enamel, the front bezel further decorated with royal blue guilloché enamel, all framed by rose-cut diamond-set borders, case back centred with star-form millegrain diamond-set motif, the pendant’s bow further set with rose-cut diamonds in millegrain setting, inside case back with French eagle’s head assay mark for Jules Person Case number: hand stamped 75’134 Closure: necklace chain composed of royal blue guilloché enamel rods connected by short chains and pearls, millegrain diamond-set jump ring, the chain joined to the watch’s pendant via a rose-cut diamond-set bow clip Size: 26 mm diameter Accessories: none Louis Cartier was profoundly influenced by the craftsmanship and artistry of Peter Carl Fabergé, whose work epitomised luxury and innovation in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Fabergé’s mastery of guilloché enamel, vibrant use of gemstones, and ability to reinterpret historical motifs with a modern sensibility captivated Cartier, inspiring his own approach to design. This influence is evident in Cartier’s focus on fine enamelling, richly detailed ornamentation, and bold colour palettes that balanced intricacy with elegance. Fabergé’s nature-inspired themes, imperial symbolism, and fusion of traditional and contemporary styles further shaped Cartier’s artistic vision.

View 1 of Lot 2486: A platinum, gold, royal blue guilloché enamel and diamond-set pendant watch with matching chain, Circa 1905

a platinum, gold, royal blue guilloché enamel and diamond-set pendant watch with matching chain, circa 1905

Cartier, Paris Baguette Coulissante An unusual rectangular yellow gold lady’s rear-wound wristwatch with sliding protective dial cover and gold bracelet with deployant buckle, Circa 1945-46 Dial: cream dial signed Cartier, black Arabic numerals, blued steel epée hands Calibre: 4’’’ Duo-Plan calibre 409/PB signed European Watch and Clock Co. Inc., grained and pearled decoration, lever escapement, 16 jewels, annular balance with poising screws, unadjusted, flat hairspring, with U.S. import code EXU [B] Movement number: numbered 246’879 Case: 18k yellow gold polished rectangular case with stepped sides, satin-finished upper body with similarly finished panel sliding to reveal the dial, gold screw-set lug bars, case back with rear-set notched winding crown Case number: outside case back stamped 18k, hand stamped 90’572, 1’615, Edmond Jaeger punch mark in flag-shaped cartouche and further rubbed lozenge-shaped stamp, underside of case top and central sliding panel hand stamped 90’572, panel additionally with Edmond Jaeger punch mark in flag-shaped cartouche Closure: 18k yellow gold herringbone-pattern woven bracelet with contrasting pink gold deployant buckle, hand stamped 1’265 and with punch mark Size: 34 mm length x 15 mm width, bracelet circumference approximately 175 mm Accessories: Cartier presentation box Edmond Jaeger’s patent No. 157094, filed on 16 April 1931, describes an innovative watch design featuring a sliding cover mechanism. The mechanism is seamlessly integrated into the watch case, preserving the timepiece’s elegant appearance. Cartier’s adoption of this case design in its Baguette model underscores the firm’s commitment to innovative watchmaking. The design features a unique mechanism where the central panel of the case slides to reveal the dial. This ingenious feature adds both functionality and a sense of intrigue to the timepiece while protecting the dial when not in use. The placement of the winding crown to the case back ensures that the model’s clean lines remain uninterrupted. The sliding cover not only adds elegance but also serves a practical purpose, making the watch particularly suited to active lifestyles. Much like the Cartier Basculante or Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, it offers a clever solution for dial protection and is ideal for sporting activities. Sliding the cover to reveal the dial provides a smooth and satisfying experience, combining practicality with thoughtful design. This harmonious integration of form and function exemplifies Cartier’s mastery in creating watches that are both innovative and a pleasure to use.

View 1 of Lot 2487: Baguette Coulissante | An unusual rectangular yellow gold lady’s rear-wound wristwatch with sliding protective dial cover and gold bracelet with deployant buckle, Circa 1945-46

baguette coulissante | an unusual rectangular yellow gold lady’s rear-wound wristwatch with sliding protective dial cover and gold bracelet with deployant buckle, circa 1945-46

Cartier Baignoire Allongée, Reference 2674 A yellow gold wristwatch, Circa 2005 Dial: silvered Calibre: cal. 8970 MC mechanical, 18 jewels Case: 18k yellow gold, case back secured by 4 screws Case number: 124776 AF Closure: unsigned red alligator strap and gold-plated buckle Size: 47 mm length x 22 mm width Signed: case, dial and movement Accessories: none In the pantheon of Cartier wristwatch designs, there are several categories that have a bearing on both collectability and price, with the majority of creations by Louis and Jean-Jacques Cartier becoming the most popular and important. These include the Tank Louis, Santos, Crash and also the Baignoire. However, the Baignoire would join the hallowed ranks of models which would grace the drafting tables of both great men. Indeed, the original design which would eventually become the Baignoire was conceived by Louis Cartier himself and presented to Maria Pavlovna, Grand Duchess of Russia. Decades later, the one-off creation would be reinterpreted by Jean-Jacques Cartier, head of the London branch, into what was then known as the Oval and Maxi Oval. Still produced in small quantities, as were all watches made by the London workshop, these designs served as the launchpad for what would eventually become the Baignoire and Bagnoire Allongée. After Cartier left family ownership in the 1970s, the Baignoire name was finally given to the Oval-shaped wristwatch, with the Bagnoire Allongée first appearing in 1991 as an oversized offering calling back to the London Maxi Oval. The Allongée was never made in large quantities with the present example belongs to a subsequent run produced during the early 2000s, and it is imbued with the glorious history of both the brand and the men who made it what it was, Louis and Jean-Jacques Cartier.

View 1 of Lot 2157: Baignoire Allongée, Reference 2674 | A yellow gold wristwatch, Circa 2005

baignoire allongée, reference 2674 | a yellow gold wristwatch, circa 2005

Cartier Cheich A historically important and unique white gold wristwatch, Circa 2010 Dial: white Calibre: quartz, jewelled Case: 18k white gold, case back secured by 4 screws Case number: No. 1, 3316AF and 62020C Closure: brown Cartier leather strap and 18k white gold folding clasp Size: 38 mm length x 27 mm width Signed: case, dial and movement Accessories: Cartier Certificate and presentation box The story begins with a race across the desert. Founded in 1978 by famed motorcyclist Thierry Sabine after he himself got lost during a desert rally race, Paris Dakar immediately gained the reputation of being the ultimate endurance automobile race in the world. Beginning in the French capitol, the gruelling twenty day race would end an astonishing 10,000 kilometers away in Dakar, Senegal, with enrollment open to anyone across three categories: motorcycle, car and truck. Combining adventure, camaraderie and both human and mechanical endurance, for three consecutive weeks both man and machine were pushed to the absolute limit in some of the most beautiful landscapes on the planet. Inspired by this magnificent spectacle and fueled by their historic spirit for adventure, Cartier was eager to get involved and agreed to sponsor Paris Dakar in two ways. One of the most difficult stages of the race was the crossing of the Tenere, a 1,500 kilometer wide behemoth often referred to as “the desert that scares the desert”. The famous stage was christened the “Raid Santos of Cartier”, paying tribute to the daring aviator whom the world’s first wristwatch was made for. Second and more famously was the Cartier Challenge. Starting in 1983, Cartier announced that any racer who was able to win consecutive editions of Paris Dakar would be awarded the Cartier Challenge Trophy, which instead of being a cup, took the shape of a wristwatch. Cartier knew that to commemorate the winner of such a momentous achievement, the watch had to be every bit as daring as Paris Dakar itself. Cartier is masterful at taking inspiration from culturally significant source material while remaining tasteful in its designs, and for the Challenge Trophy, La Maison looked toward the soul of the race, the desert. Though the Sahara was the adoptive home to Paris Dakar, the real inhabitants were the Tuareg people. The men of the tribe wore distinctive blue headscarves, Cheich in French, earning them the nickname “blue men of the desert”. Cartier had found the perfect inspiration. The Paris Dakar Cartier Challenge ran yearly between 1983 and 1985. As luck would have it, it would not take long for someone to walk away with the prize. Gaston Rahier, considered to be one of the greatest champions in motorsports history, proved himself worthy of his title “King of the Desert” by winning the 1984 and 1985 editions and became the first recipient of the Cartier Challenge Trophy. Tragically, he was also to be the only recipient of the Trophy, as the following year in 1986, founder Thierry Sabine passed away in a helicopter accident, and the Cartier Challenge died with him. A total of four examples of the mythical Cartier Cheich were produced in the period. The first two were made in 1983 with the launch of the Cartier Challenge, one men’s and one women’s. Another was created specially for Thierry Sabine, though the current whereabouts of this watch are unknown. After the men’s example was awarded to Gaston Rahier, a final fourth one was created for the next winner, but was never awarded. In 2022, Sotheby’s proudly auctioned the Gaston Rahier example, offered directly from Rahier’s family, for a price in excess of one million euros, a fee completely befitting of the rarest and most fabled Cartier wristwatch shape. For decades, that was it: one lost, one sold and two in Cartier’s archive collection. But impossibly, a fifth was born. For Giorgio Seragnoli, co-author of the famous Cartier Bianco book and indeed owner of the most significant collection of white metal Cartier watches of all time, perhaps the only trophy watch that was left for him to possess was the ultimate trophy of all, that of Paris Dakar and the Cartier Challenge, and only for him would Cartier oblige. In 2010, they created their most extraordinary special commission ever, a unique white gold Cheich wristwatch, No. 1 of 1. The result was the ultimate combination of anything any collector could ever want: the rarest and most hallowed shape ever made by Cartier, with the richest history ever imbued upon one of their designs, created in a unique white gold execution for their most significant collector, for a calibre of request that the brand would never again be willing to accept. Sotheby’s is proud, humbled and elated to present the most impossible, the most triumphant, the most elusive and the most breathtaking Cartier wristwatch ever created.

View 1 of Lot 2292: Cheich | A historically important and unique white gold wristwatch, Circa 2010

cheich | a historically important and unique white gold wristwatch, circa 2010

Cartier Reflection de Cartier, Reference WGMC0002 A pink gold bangle watch, Circa 2024 Dial: silverd Calibre: quartz, jewelled Case: 18k pink gold Case number: 248704EY Closure: 18k pink gold Cartier bangle Size: 18 mm width, bangle circumference approximately 155 mm Signed: case, dial and movement Accessories: Cartier travelling pouch A striking expression of Cartier's contemporary jewellery watchmaking, the Reflection de Cartier transforms time into an elegant play of light and illusion. Crafted in pink gold, its sculptural open bracelet combines polished reflective surfaces with refined architectural lines, while the ingenious mirrored design creates the impression of time flowing in reverse. This distinctive creation seamlessly unites Cartier's watchmaking and jewellery savoir-faire, embodying the Maison's enduring pursuit of innovation, beauty, and mystery.

View 1 of Lot 2522: Reflection de Cartier, Reference WGMC0002 | A pink gold bangle watch, Circa 2024

reflection de cartier, reference wgmc0002 | a pink gold bangle watch, circa 2024

Cartier Santos 100, Reference 2792 A pink gold wristwatch, Circa 2010 Dial: brown Calibre: automatic, 21 jewels Case: 18k pink gold, case back secured by 8 screws Case number: 107651MX Closure: brown Cartier alligator strap and 18k pink gold double folding clasp Size: 51 mm length x 41 mm width Signed: case, dial and movement Accessories: none

View 1 of Lot 8886: Santos 100, Reference 2792 | A pink gold wristwatch, Circa 2010

santos 100, reference 2792 | a pink gold wristwatch, circa 2010

Cartier Panthère 1925, Reference 2323 A white gold, emerald and diamond-set wristwatch with bracelet, Circa 2000 Dial: silvered Calibre: quartz, jewelled Case: 18k white gold, case back secured by 4 screws Case number: DM10955 Closure: 18k white gold Cartier bracelet and 18k white gold double folding clasp Size: 28 mm diameter, bracelet circumference approximately 180 mm Signed: case, dial and movement Accessories: none Inspired by Cartier’s iconic panther motif, the Cartier Panthère reference 2323 features a sculptural panther with emerald-set eyes gracefully embracing the pavé-set diamond bezel and integrated bracelet. Combining playful elegance with Cartier’s design language, it remains one of the most elegant and iconic ladies’ timepieces.

View 1 of Lot 2517: Panthère 1925, Reference 2323 | A white gold, diamond and emerald-set bracelet watch, Circa 2000

panthère 1925, reference 2323 | a white gold, diamond and emerald-set bracelet watch, circa 2000

Cartier Baignoire Joaillerie, Reference 1955 A special edition white gold and diamond-set wristwatch, Circa 2001 Dial: silvered and diamond-set Calibre: quartz, jewelled Case: 18k white gold, case back secured by 4 screws Case number: 365168MG Closure: black Cartier alligator strap and 18k white gold folding clasp Size: 30.5 mm length x 22.5 mm width Signed: case, dial and movement Accessories: none Even though the Baignoire is a design rooted in history, in recent times Cartier has become more daring with experimentation, a trait that can be traced back to its London workshop, a place where some of Cartier’s most daring designs were made. Named “the Jeweler of Kings and the King of Jewellers" by Edward VII, the present lot stays true to its reputation evident with its meticulously set diamonds on the dial which glistens when worn. The larger case size allows the curvaceous form of the case to be more prominent at the wearer’s wrist.

View 1 of Lot 2471: Baignoire Joaillerie, Reference 1955 | A special edition white gold and diamond-set wristwatch, Circa 2001

baignoire joaillerie, reference 1955 | a special edition white gold and diamond-set wristwatch, circa 2001

Cartier, Paris Carrée A rare platinum cushion-form openface keyless lever watch with diamond-set GR monogram, Circa 1914 Dial: silvered dial signed Cartier Paris, black stretched radial Roman numerals, inner minute track, blued steel Breguet hands Calibre: 16¼’’’ movement signed Cartier Paris, damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, 18 jewels, bi-metallic compensation balance with timing and poising screws, 8 adjustments, Breguet hairspring, snail cam-form precision regulation Movement number: numbered to movement beneath dial 4’981 Case: platinum cushion-form case, flat case back with rounded edge and centrally set with script-form millegrain rose-cut diamond-set monogram GR, smooth upper case with polished cushion-form slim bezel secured by eight screws to the underside, two-prong pendant with triangular-form bow, notched winding crown, French dog’s head platinum assay mark to rim at 6 o’clock, inside case back with dog’s head assay and Edmond Jaeger punch mark Case number: case top interior and inside case back both hand stamped 6’116, 4’981 Size: 41 mm width Accessories: Cartier presentation box Cartier’s pioneering use of platinum redefined luxury jewellery, bridging the gap between innovation and artistry. Unlike gold and silver, which had traditionally dominated design, platinum offered unparalleled strength, durability and a luminous quality that enhanced the brilliance of diamonds. This transformative material enabled Cartier to create pieces of unmatched intricacy and elegance, elevating the art of jewellery and watchmaking to new heights.

View 1 of Lot 2468: Carrée | A rare platinum cushion-form openface keyless lever watch with diamond-set GR monogram, Circa 1914

carrée | a rare platinum cushion-form openface keyless lever watch with diamond-set gr monogram, circa 1914

Cartier, London Maxi Pebble A very rare yellow gold wristwatch with geometric off-set dial and original gold deployant buckle, Circa 1972-73 Dial: cream dial signed Cartier, stretched radial Roman numerals, inner chemin-de-fer minute track, blued steel epée hands Calibre: 9’’’ circular calibre P838 movement signed Jaeger-LeCoultre, damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, jewelled to the centre, annular balance, flat hairspring, Kif Trior shock absorber Movement number: numbered to main plate 2’221’824 Case: 18k yellow gold case with polished finish, smooth upper body with invisible bezel, concealed lugs to back, case back secured by four screws, beaded cabochon sapphire-set crown, inside back with London hallmarks and date letter ‘r’ for 1972-73, stamped [JC] for Jean-Jacques Cartier Case number: outside case back numbered 1’266 Closure: brown unsigned leather strap and original gold deployant buckle, hallmarked London with date letter ‘r’ for 1972-73 and numbered 1’266 Size: 35 mm diameter Accessories: none The Cartier London Pebble is one of the brand’s rarest and most iconic designs. Renowned for its smooth, rounded case reminiscent of a pebble, the watch masterfully balances contrasting geometries, with a circular case enclosing a square dial. This harmonious interplay of soft curves and defined angles blends elegance with geometric precision, while the watch’s design ensures it is exceptionally comfortable to wear. The crystal is set flush with the upper case, resulting in a beautifully smooth and seamless surface. Occasionally nicknamed the “Baseball” due to its resemblance to a baseball diamond, the Pebble embodies Cartier’s penchant for combining sophisticated aesthetics with innovative design principles. Principally crafted in yellow gold, only one example is known in white gold, and just two in a combination of yellow and white gold. Of the ten known examples of the model, most feature concealed lugs that allow the upper case to form a smooth, unbroken edge. However, two examples have so-called ‘turtle’ lugs that partially emerge from the underside of the case. Jean-Jacques Cartier’s chief designer, Rupert Emmerson, is credited with the Pebble’s creation. The earliest known example is believed to be a unique white gold version dating to circa 1969. However, the model is widely thought to have been formally released in 1972, with the majority of known examples hallmarked for the 1972–73 London year cycle. The Pebble’s clean smooth case body and iconic dial have ensured its enduring appeal among collectors. Its avant-garde aesthetic, defined by the interplay of circular and square geometries, perfectly captures Cartier’s innovative spirit. Each watch was individually handcrafted, a process that imbues every piece with a unique character and further enhances its desirability. The London-made Pebbles, created under the visionary leadership of Jean-Jacques Cartier, stand as a testament to the creative independence of Cartier’s London workshop, solidifying their place among the most sought-after watches in the brand’s storied history. In 2022, Cartier honoured the Pebble’s iconic status with the release of a new limited edition that paid tribute to the original design. Produced in an edition of just 150 pieces, each dial bore the inscription ‘Swiss Made.’ --- Exceptionally rare, this watch was originally accompanied by a letter dated 27 July 1989 from the archivist at Cartier London to the previous owner, confirming that approximately 12 examples of the ‘Maxi’ Pebble were produced in the early 1970s. Of these, 9 or 10 are currently accounted for, having been re-offered to the market or published over the last three decades. These examples, including the present watch. The Pebble’s distinctive lozenge-shaped configuration – a square dial and bezel rotated 45 degrees within a circular case – draws on historical precedents in Cartier’s earlier designs. The 1912 Nain Jaune model, introduced by Louis Cartier, featured a similar concept with a square bezel and dial set within a square case, rotated to create an off-set, diamond-like effect. The London Pebble’s modernist design underscores Cartier London’s commitment to avant-garde watchmaking under Jean Jacques Cartier’s direction, highlighting the branch’s creativity and its ingenious reinterpretation of earlier Cartier designs.

View 1 of Lot 2241: Maxi Pebble | A very rare yellow gold wristwatch with geometric off-set dial and original gold deployant buckle, Circa 1972-73

maxi pebble | a very rare yellow gold wristwatch with geometric off-set dial and original gold deployant buckle, circa 1972-73

Cartier Paris Tonneau A yellow gold wristwatch, Circa 1985 Dial: silvered Calibre: mechanical, jewelled Case: 18k yellow gold, case back secured by 4 screws Case number: A107189 and 112-91 Closure: brown unsigned leather strap and gilt metal buckle Size: 32 mm length x 21 mm width Signed: case, dial and movement Accessories: none

View 1 of Lot 8805: Paris Tonneau | A yellow gold wristwatch, Circa 1985

paris tonneau | a yellow gold wristwatch, circa 1985

Cartier Tank à Guichets "CPCP", Reference 2817 A limited edition pink gold jumping hour wristwatch, Circa 2004 Dial: apertured Calibre: cal. 9752 MC mechanical, 19 jewels Case: 18k pink gold, case back secured by 8 screws Case number: limited edition 066/100 Closure: black Cartier alligator strap and 18k pink gold folding clasp Size: 40 mm length x 27 mm width Signed: case, dial and movement Accessories: Cartier Certificate, product literature and presentation box It was Louis Cartier who pushed the philosophy of Art Deco minimalism to its purest expression with the introduction of the Tank à Guichets in 1928. Famously worn by jazz legend Duke Ellington, the model has since achieved iconic status within the maison's rich design legacy. The present lot represents a faithful reinterpretation of this groundbreaking design, unveiled as part of Cartier's highly coveted Collection Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP). Produced in a strictly limited series of just 100 examples in pink gold, it embodies an uncompromising approach to elegance and restraint. Distinguished by its satin-finished gold façade, the watch dispenses entirely with a conventional dial, revealing only two apertures: a jumping hour display at 12 o’clock and a minute display at 6 o’clock. This radical simplification of form not only highlights the ingenuity of its digital-style display but also underscores the enduring modernity of Cartier's vision.

View 1 of Lot 2228: Tank à Guichets "CPCP", Reference 2817 | A limited edition pink gold jumping hour wristwatch, Circa 2004

tank à guichets "cpcp", reference 2817 | a limited edition pink gold jumping hour wristwatch, circa 2004

Cartier Crash "Paris" A white gold and diamond-set wristwatch, Circa 2000 Dial: silvered Calibre: mechanical, jewelled Case: 18k white gold, case back secured by 4 screws Case number: A114939 Closure: unsigned white satin strap and 18k white gold Cartier folding clasp Size: 38 mm length x 25 mm width Signed: case, dial and movement Accessories: none The Cartier Crash is unlike any other wristwatch on the market, distinguished by its unique silhouette and artistic, asymmetrical case design. Crafted in white gold and set with diamonds, the present example blends elegance with a feminine touch. As a Paris Crash, this example is particularly desirable, as watches produced by Cartier Paris are significantly rarer than standard production models and are highly prized by collectors for their exclusivity and close connection to the Crash’s legendary design heritage. Its refined aesthetic is highly versatile, complementing both formal attire and everyday wear. The Crash’s irregular case shape demands exceptional craftsmanship and complex manufacturing techniques, further enhancing its appeal to collectors. Over recent years, the model has attracted significant attention and become one of Cartier’s most coveted and sought-after timepieces.

View 1 of Lot 2506: Crash "Paris" | A white gold and diamond-set wristwatch, Circa 2000

crash "paris" | a white gold and diamond-set wristwatch, circa 2000

Cartier, Paris New York retailed A very fine and slim yellow gold openface dress watch with two-tone engine-turned dial, Circa 1927 Dial: silvered dial with radial engine-turned decoration, signed Cartier, high sheen concentric circular engine-turned chapter ring with Roman numerals, outer grained minute ring, chapter and minute ring with filet sauté borders, Cartier Orientales blued steel hands Calibre: 16’’’ movement signed European Watch and Clock Co. Inc., damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, 19 jewels, 8 adjustments, flat hairspring Movement number: movement beneath dial with pearled finish and hand stamped 1’3106, 5 Case: 18k yellow gold polished case, the back with Art Deco geometric intertwined monogram, flat band, two-pronged pendant with triangular bow Case number: pendant numbered 036, 36, bow with French eagle’s head assay, internal rim of case body hand stamped 18'787, 13'106, bezel interior 18'787, inside back with French eagle’s head assay, Edmond Jaeger punch mark and hand stamped 13'106 Size: 40 mm diameter Accessories: Cartier presentation box The elegantly arranged dial of this watch draws inspiration from a pocket watch with a double chapter ring that Cartier introduced in the early 1910s. These original double chapter ring watches featured two distinct high-sheen rings: one at the outer edge of the dial displaying hours in the standard 12 hour format, and an additional inner 24-hour ring neatly positioned between the dial’s centre and the outer chapter. They employed an hour hand with a double taper – essentially two spade tips – that simultaneously indicated the time on both the 12-hour and 24-hour calibrated rings. In this watch the concept has been refined and advanced, with the hour and minute chapter rings entirely separated. The layout draws inspiration from so-called “regulator” dials, found on some clocks and watches, where a subsidiary dial displays the hours while the minutes are shown on the main dial’s outer edge. Here, the elongated minute hand stretches dramatically to the grained minute track at the edge of the dial, ensuring precision and clarity. Meanwhile, the bold Roman numerals for the hours are enhanced by the high sheen of the circular engine-turned chapter ring, set against the radial engine-turned body of the dial with its wave or moiré-like effect. Together, these elements highlight the exceptional skill and artistry of the dial maker, combining multiple decorative techniques to create a design of unparalleled refinement – one of the finest dial creations of the period.

View 1 of Lot 2483: New York retailed | A very fine and slim yellow gold openface dress watch with two-tone engine-turned dial, Circa 1927

new york retailed | a very fine and slim yellow gold openface dress watch with two-tone engine-turned dial, circa 1927

Cartier Cloche "Collection Privé", Reference WGCC0004 A limited edition platinum wristwatch, Circa 2021 Dial: silvered Calibre: cal. 1917 MC mechanical, 27 jewels Case: platinum, case back secured by 4 screws Case number: limited edition 099/100 and 4’338 Closure: black Cartier alligator strap and platinum buckle Size: 37 mm length x 28.75 mm width Signed: case, dial and movement Accessories: Cartier International Limited Warranty and presentation box The Cartier Cloche is the quirkier brother to its more famous siblings, but that does not mean it does not have a personality of its own. Affectionately named the ‘Bell’ in French for its one of a kind case shape, it was designed and released in the 1920s, but the limited production meant that the Cloche became a watch only for the ones “in the know”. The 2021 rendition stays true and faithful to the original design, featuring a platinum case and silver dial with the French house’s iconic roman numeral, produced in a very limited run of just 100 pieces. To top it off, emblematic of Cloche’s quirky but practical history, the case shape was designed so that it can function as a desk clock when it is not on the wrist. The stylistic yet practical design choice is no short of a love letter to Cartier's long standing tradition of making watches that blend the realm of functionality and form.

View 1 of Lot 2234: Cloche "Collection Privé", Reference WGCC0004 | A limited edition platinum wristwatch, Circa 2021

cloche "collection privé", reference wgcc0004 | a limited edition platinum wristwatch, circa 2021

Cartier, Paris Santos Droit A very rare and early yellow gold wristwatch with original early gold deployant clasp, Circa 1915 Dial: cream dial signed Cartier, stretched radial black Roman numerals, inner chemin-de-fer minute track, blued steel hands Calibre: later replacement 9¼’’’ circular Jaeger-LeCoultre K818/1 movement signed Cartier Inc. and with U.S. import code VXN, damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, 18 jewels, annular balance, flat hairspring, adjusted to temperatures and 2 positions Movement number: numbered to back of main plate 809’322 Case: 18k yellow gold case, polished upper body, chamfered bezel secured by eight pink gold screws mounted from the underside, the lugs with gold screw-set bars, case secured by four gold screws to case sides, sapphire cabochon-set beaded crown, case top with French eagle’s head assay mark, case back interior with Edmond Jaeger punch mark Case number: lug numbered to underside 557 Closure: camel unsigned leather strap and early 18k yellow gold deployant buckle with ardillon buckle numbered 10’355, stamped twice with French eagle’s head assay mark and twice faintly with EJ punch mark Size: 31 mm length x 22 mm width Accessories: none In 1904 Louis Cartier (1875-1942) supplied his pioneering aviator friend, Alberto Santos-Dumont (1873-1932), with a wristwatch that could be used to consult the time while at the controls of one of his airships. Louis Cartier was passionately interested in watches and sought to develop a greater range of both pocket and wristwatches. He quickly recognised the potential of the wristwatch which hitherto had almost exclusively been regarded as a jewelry item for ladies. By attaching a watch to the wrist of one of the most famous and daring celebrities of his day, Louis Cartier was undoubtedly intending to demonstrate the practicality and allure of outwardly wearing a beautifully crafted timepiece. In 1914, Cartier released a new version of the Santos, named the Santos Droit, of which the present wristwatch is a very rare and early example. The Santos Droit has lugs which curve around the ends of the case rather than pinching inwards as seen on the earlier Santos-Dumont design. Also noticeable is the bezel which, on the Santos Droit, is chamfered in contrast to the rounded finish of the Santos-Dumont. The bezel is secured via screws mounted from the underside of the case top, these screws being pink gold and providing a subtle contrast to the yellow gold bezel.

View 1 of Lot 2484: Santos Droit | A very rare and early yellow gold wristwatch with original early gold deployant clasp, Circa 1915

santos droit | a very rare and early yellow gold wristwatch with original early gold deployant clasp, circa 1915

Cartier, Paris Pilote / Driver An unusual limited edition deeply curved rectangular yellow gold driver’s rear-wound wristwatch with integrated gold deployant buckle, Circa 1997 Dial: two-tone silvered dial signed Cartier, Paris, stretched black radial Roman numerals, dial centre with interwoven lattice motif, secret signature at 10 o’clock, blued steel epée hands Calibre: 6’’’ calibre 6 circular rear-wound movement signed Cartier, damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, 17 jewels, annular balance, flat hairspring, Incabloc shock absorber Movement number: main plate numbered 960’305 Case: 18k yellow gold curved rectangular case, chamfered bezel, hooded lugs, the lower lugs integrating the deployant clasp’s closure, curved satin-finished case back, flat notched winder to case back, case back secured by four screws to case sides, case back exterior signed Cartier, Paris, L♥C 1847 1997, Mecanique, Made in France, with Swiss assay marks for 18k gold, interior with Swiss assay marks Case number: limited edition 136/150, numbered A113858 Closure: black unsigned leather strap and 18k yellow gold deployant buckle integrated into the lower lug and formed to the curvature of the case back, stamped Cartier, with Swiss assay marks and stamped 18k [750], Made in France Size: 34 mm length x 19 mm width Accessories: Cartier instruction manual and presentation box The CPCP Driver’s Watch was directly inspired by the original Cartier Paris design from 1933. This limited edition 1997 model closely follows the original’s curved rectangular case and is numbered 136 of 150 limited pieces.

View 1 of Lot 2224: Pilote / Driver | An unusual limited edition deeply curved rectangular yellow gold driver’s rear-wound wristwatch with integrated gold deployant buckle, Circa 1997

pilote / driver | an unusual limited edition deeply curved rectangular yellow gold driver’s rear-wound wristwatch with integrated gold deployant buckle, circa 1997

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